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When assembling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate familiar high-end names. However, nestled high among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

An Surprise Honour

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has left the family utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states the family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble shop earning such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has kept much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.